Luckert Müller-Thurgau 2021

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 There are grapes which tend to be seen as not prestigious as others. 

Müller-Thurgau is, somehow, one of them. Created by the Swiss Hermann Müller as a crossing between Riesling and Madeilene Royale, it is still associated with low quality half-dry wines which were tremendously popular in Germany during the 70s and 80s. 

Even though a long time has passed since then, it is interesting to see how most customers politely deny my recommendation whenever I do it.  In fact, it is quite hard to sell it to people aged between 30 and 50 as it may recall some bad memories of wine they may have tried with their parents. 

The most positive side of it is that younger generations do start having a different approach to it, specially due to its flexibility to match spicy dishes and more exotic cuisine. 

And that's exactly where this Müller-Thurgau has shown a tremendous depth with elegant ripe apples, nutmeg and a slight smoky note which made it tremendously interesting and avoided some of the tendentiously sweet aromas that Müller-Thurgau may bring. This smokiness was definitely what has conquered me in this wine as it also contributed to a sense of heavier body and complexity. 

 I would say that the spontaneous fermentation that the wine went through has been decisive for its unique character, reflecting a particular terroir strongly marked by limestone soils.

Drinking this wine has matched my coming back to Rosa Montero and her fabulous La ridicula idea de no volverte a ver where biographical notes of the life of Marie Curie mix with personal considerations mainly about death and feminism. This was one of the best books I have read this year and I cannot hide my disappointment when realizing that there is no German translation of the same as I really wanted to offer a copy of it to some friends. My mother, on the other hand, will get a copy of it soon. Some books, just like some wines, have to be shared over and over.

16,5/20
Country: Germany  
Region: Franken
Grapes: Müller-Thurgau
12,5%
Winemaker: Wolfgang; Ulrich and Philipp Luckert

Website: https://shop.weingut-zehnthof.de/2021-sulzfelder-muller-thurgau-trocken.html

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