Pirouette White 2023
Can wine drinking be a political statement? This is a question which has been following me for quite a while as I came across projects like Sekko Soziale (Social Secco) or Kein Wein den Faschisten (Not a Wine for Fascists). With its very clear messages against the growing right wing movements in Germany these are projects deeply identified with Hamburg and a certain political and social culture that you can experience there. Still, I have to admit that in northern Germany wine is still connected with a certain kind of elitism and exclusiveness that often excludes people from it. I sure know that this is a generalization, but it is interesting to see that there is barely any wine shop as soon as you leave the richer parts of town. And surely not independent ones. Even though there is still a predominance of older and traditional wineries, often represented by labels showing their cote of arms or chateaux in countries like France or Germany itself, there is a change going on. The ...